The sinking city has been mythologised in history, art, literature and music for centuries, but few people experience the real Venice. During one long, humid summer, Bidisha explores the truth of the revered City of Love. Guided through its intricate social conventions by her best friend's family, who reside at one of the most famous palazzi on the Canal Grande, she learns valuable lessons about the `Italian way' but glimpses disturbing prejudices beneath the sophisticated surface. With wit and elegance, Bidisha describes rubbing shoulders with the social elite at glamorous parties and sampling the exquisite delights of her favourite pasticceria, and takes us along on her daily runs through the winding, mysterious back-streets.