Irene Emerys innovative construction of a comprehensive system of terminology for describing fabrics was recognized as a classic on its first publication in 1966. Based on years of study of a huge range of fabrics produced by hand or by strictly limited mechanization, its essential strength is its universality: whether the purpose of study is an aspect of design, history or cultural significance and whatever its scope chronologically or geographically, a definition of the actual structural makeup of fabrics and their component parts becomes clear and accessible to all.